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18 Aug 2009 Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu could become habit forming
Jen Savedra
18 AUG 2009: Rue Richelieu is a narrow curving road running off the highway into Malbaie. Small Inns and Gites (B and Bs) are shaded by the heavy foliage. A stark grey casino with neon signage is a minor blip amongst the lovely architecture and then around a curve comes the driveway to Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu.
Manicured lawns and hedges border the road – a sign directs you to the hotel and casino (not the same one we passed) and the golf course.
The hotel sits majestically at the summit of the Pointe-au-Pic cliff , overlooking the estuary of the St. Lawrence River. It’s an impressive sight, yet its grey stone walls and muted green roof balance beautifully with rich palette of the surrounding landscape.
Like its counterpart in Quebec City, The Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu is an imposing building opening in 1899, burning to the ground in 1928 and reopening in 1929.
Directly across from the front entrance of the hotel is the casino. As you might imagine, it’s a busy spot with a steady flow of people in and out. The grounds outside are decorated with topiary cut to resemble card suits – a spade, heart, diamond and club.
In 1998 a consortium consisting of Canadian Pacific Hotels and resorts, Loto Qu&eactute;bec and the Fonds du solidarit&eactute; des travailleurs du Qu&eactute;bec acquired the hotel and launched a massive $140 million renovation restoring the hotel to its former glory.
The 405 guestrooms and suites are unique and charming – ours had a partially sloping ceiling and a dormer window, providing an oldey-worldey feel – but with all the mod-cons.
The hotel boasts three restaurants, all overlooking the St. Lawrence. There’s the casual Le Bellerive, the more sophisticated St. Laurent, (both with outside terraces) and the amazing Le Charlevoix. If you ever want a really, really, special meal – a big time celebration to savour and save for – and perfection doesn’t come cheap – this is it. And it’s worth every mind-blowing bite.
The lobby area is a reminder of a more charming age. Panelled wood and soaring ceilings, with comfortable armchairs and sofas make for a relaxing setting for a drink or a spot of people watching. And perhaps Jordy the Canine Ambassador might wander by for a pat.
Off the lobby a long glass fronted room faces the river that quickly became a favourite for me. If it has a name I never caught it, but It is the perfect place to spend a quiet morning with a book – or to do some work. The atmosphere is tranquil and it’s easy to get comfortable and even nod off for a few minutes.
An open air terrace is attached, and attracted many guests, but I preferred to stay indoors, the tranquility broken only briefly by the harsh strident tones of a woman and her cell phone apparently eager for us all to share her words of wisdom. After a minute or two, someone from a small soft spoken group sitting beside her, had a quiet word, and she flounced out, phone still to her ear but face thunderous.
I once again enjoyed the serenity of the lovely room. Just outside is a small coffee bar where you can get assorted hot drinks and breakfast croissant and muffins . There’s a piano at one end offering live music in the evenings to accompany your wine or cocktails. .
It is a beautiful spot. Despite my best intentions, I managed to try it at night, but I’m sure it is wonderful.
The hotel has an excellent Amerispa health spa and a multi sports centre including indoor and outdoor salt water swimming pools. I’m not a golfer, but on looks alone the golf course is a winner sitting as it does on various levels by the river. Our resident expert Anita Draycott, later told me she has played and enjoyed the course. (I’m beginning to think she has played every golf course – everywhere!)
We are there of course in summer. Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu is a splendid summer resort with walking and biking trails – bicycles by the way are free to use - and lots to see and do in the surrounding area – whale watching is a must. It is gorgeous, glorious and every superlative you can think of. Dogs are of course welcome, and there are several on the property, we meet up with them on regular walks through the extensive grounds.
“Winter must be pretty bleak” I suggested, to the amusement of a local resident. Apparently not so at all – and when I saw the pictures and understood winter sports abound, including of course skiing , both downhill and cross country, snowshoeing, skating – the hotel makes a rink right in the terrace above the river and have bonfires. It’s perfect for snowmobiling and one of the swimming pools even offers outdoor swimming in the middle of winter. There’s tobogganing and you can even ride on a dog sled ride.
It would be remiss not to mention the service. The staff are, without exception, friendly, efficient and professional. Special mention must be made of our waiter Bernard and maitre d’ Mathieu Vincent. Together with the skill of chef Stephane Breton, they made the experience of dining at Le Charlevoix restaurant as exquisite as the taste.
We’ll be back. When it comes to Charlevoix – once is not nearly enough.
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